
Harry’s co-founder Jeff Raider talks the FTC, early errors at Warby Parker, and why he actually purchased a German razor blade manufacturing facility.
Lightning doesn’t strike twice. Besides when it does. Jeff Raider helped launch Warby Parker in 2010 whereas nonetheless getting his MBA at Wharton. The plan was to supply high-quality eyeglasses, direct-to-consumer, for round $100 {dollars}. It was a novel concept. He and his companions truly submitted the marketing strategy to a contest at Wharton—which they misplaced. However he and his co-founders bought the final snigger. Warby, a pioneer within the one-for-one philanthropic mannequin, went public in 2021 and is presently valued at over $3 billion {dollars}.
Raider’s follow-up, Harry’s, was maybe much more spectacular. Harry’s, the upstart razor firm, was based in 2013 to problem giants like Gillette and Schick—and it labored. By 2019, Harry’s had amassed a seven % share of non-disposable razors within the U.S. That very same yr, Edgewell Private Care (Schick’s mum or dad firm) provided to purchase Harry’s for $1.37 billion {dollars}. They usually weren’t proposing a standard exit both; if the deal went by way of, Raider and his enterprise accomplice, Andy Katz-Mayfield, would take management of Edgewell’s whole portfolio of manufacturers, together with Playtex and Banana Boat. However after 9 months of due diligence, the FTC killed the deal. Their rationale? Harry’s was primarily too disruptive to sacrifice.
It was disappointing. What do you inform workers who thought they had been about to money out? However one thing doubtlessly extra attention-grabbing got here from the ashes of that misplaced deal. As an alternative of being purchased out by, say, a P&G, Harry’s determined to construct its personal P&G. Over breakfast for the season one finale of the brand new Forbes collection “Cereal Entrepreneur,” Raider will get candid about all of it.
MICKEY RAPKIN: What are we consuming as we speak?
JEFF RAIDER: I’m consuming a cereal from a model referred to as Magic Spoon. Full disclosure, I invested on this model a short while in the past.
ERIC RYAN: That’s an entrepreneur. By no means miss an opportunity to advertise the model.
RAPKIN: Would you are taking us again to the start of Warby Parker? What was the a-ha second?
RAIDER: It occurred after class one day in enterprise college. I used to be sitting with my buddy Neil [Blumenthal], simply sort of hanging out after class. One other one in every of our good associates got here as much as us and stated, “What do you consider the concept of sun shades on-line?” On the time, I had a $500 dollar pair of designer glasses. My prescription had modified a number of occasions however I hadn’t modified glasses as a result of they had been so costly. Neil had labored within the eyewear trade. He stated, “The explanation they’re so costly is as a result of there’s a few corporations that dominate all the trade.” He stated you may get an superior pair of glasses for lower than 100 {dollars}. I couldn’t sleep that evening.
RAPKIN: Did you actually enter the Warby Parker marketing strategy into a contest at Wharton—and misplaced?
RAIDER: Yeah, true.
RAPKIN: Who gained?
RAIDER: I don’t know. However one in every of our good associates, Joey Zwillinger—
RYAN: Who began Allbirds.
RAIDER: —I feel Joey made it to the finals with this concept for stuffed animal robots referred to as Cuddle Bots. To this day, he nonetheless provides us plenty of flak—that Cuddle Bots made it additional within the competitors than Warby Parker. In equity to Wharton, a few of the issues within the enterprise mannequin had been nonetheless coming collectively, it was sort of moist clay.
Jeff Raider launched Warby Parker whereas pursuing an MBA
Courtesy of Jeff Raider
Studying Curve
RYAN: Inform us about an early problem at Warby.
RAIDER: Proper after we launched we began to sell out. We had been overwhelmed with demand, which is the perfect drawback you may have, however nonetheless an issue. We had gotten a bunch of nice press in GQ and in Vogue. I feel we had 8,700 pairs of glasses and we nonetheless began to sell out of full units of product. I’m like, “They love us, let’s simply hold taking orders.” Neil very thoughtfully was like, “Let’s cease promoting, create waitlists. This might take some time to get extra stock, we don’t know the way high demand is.” He was proper. We had been out of inventory on a few of these frames for an extended, lengthy time.
RAPKIN: I’m assuming you’re carrying Warby Parker glasses now. You’re by no means tempted to stroll into Moscot?
RAIDER: Not as soon as. If we are able to’t make merchandise that we love to make use of ourselves, I’m undecided what we’re doing.
RYAN: I say that, too. I’m all the time amazed that huge corporations attempt to create as a lot area between who they’re and who they create for. As an entrepreneur, I attempt to shut that window to nothing. I feel the perfect corporations on the earth—Nike, Apple—they create merchandise that they love and use themselves. That’s the way you lead the consumer versus following them.
Household Issues
RAPKIN: Jeff, your mother was an entrepreneur. Was that encouraging?
RAIDER: It undoubtedly made me need to do it much less. She ran a enterprise that offered finish clients with loyalty advertising playing cards. If you bought your CVS card within the very early days— Her firm helped CVS to consider each the playing cards and the applications. I used to be like, “Man, that is all-consuming and the result is unsure. Why would somebody need to do that?” What I didn’t understand is that she cherished it, and that it was all-consuming as a result of she wished it to be.
The founders of Harry’s purchased a razor blade manufacturing facility in Germany of their quest to disrupt the … [+]
Courtesy of Harry’s
RAPKIN: After co-creating Methodology, I do know Eric felt strain to do it once more.
RYAN: When you’ve created one thing from scratch, you’ve realized a lot. And you’re feeling this itch to reapply all that studying. However for me it additionally brings up this concern—that I’d gotten fortunate. There’s a reputational danger: Are you solely nearly as good as your final at-bat?
RAPKIN: Jeff, did you are feeling that very same strain within the run-up to Harry’s?
RAIDER: I don’t assume so. Each Warby Parker and Harry’s had been fairly serendipitous. My Harry’s co-founder, Andy, got here to me with the concept for Harry’s. I used to be nonetheless concerned at Warby Parker on the time, sort of moonlighting there as I used to be working in personal fairness. Then Andy G-chatted me one day. He’s like, “Hey, I had this actually dangerous expertise in a drugstore shopping for Gillette razorblades. I used to be overcharged, the manufacturers didn’t resonate with me, they had been locked up. Might you are taking what you realized at Warby Parker and do it right here?”
RAPKIN: Warby Parker was bootstrapped. However Harry’s was a wholly totally different origin story. You had, like, eleven full-time workers on employees earlier than launch. You got a razor blade manufacturing facility in Germany. Was that simply since you might?
RAIDER: The context is that there’s only some corporations on the earth that may make a blade that you just need to put wherever near your face. I realized that the arduous method.
RYAN: How so?
RAIDER: We as soon as tried this blade that was like a lawnmower. It appeared like a medieval torture system. In equity to Gillette, they had been making actually good merchandise. We felt like we needed to make one thing that was superior so as to compete. We ended up discovering this manufacturing facility in Germany that made nice razorblades, they’d by no means bought within the U.S. earlier than. We went over, bought to know them and constructed a relationship there.
RAPKIN: I’ve heard that story earlier than. However I’ve by no means heard you set the scene. What did they assume while you walked into this manufacturing facility? They have to’ve thought, “Who’re these clowns?”
RAIDER: I referred to as them—they didn’t choose up. So, I emailed them and I stated, “Hey, I began this firm referred to as Warby Parker, it’s been profitable, right here’s the enterprise mannequin. I feel there’s a chance for one thing comparable in razors and blades.” We had a number of conversations after which we went to Germany and met them. However it took some time for us to earn their belief. We had been telling them, That is going to be an enormous enterprise. They usually stated, “OK, so what’s your first order?” We stated, “What would it not take to lock on this settlement?” They stated one million razorblades. So, we dedicated to purchasing one million razorblades on the spot.
RAPKIN: Did you might have the funding in place?
RAIDER: We didn’t have the capital to go do it. We got here again to the U.S. with a contract for one million razorblades and a high-level pitch. We knew sufficient buyers who had been enthusiastic about that concept. However that was a really distinctive scenario. We had been going backwards and forwards with the German staff. We’d ship them an e-mail, they’d e-mail one another in German, after which ahead another e-mail again to us in English. So clearly, we simply took the German a part of the e-mail and we put it by way of Google Translate. In one of many e-mails they had been like, “The American Web boys would request 500,000 razorblades.” We’re like, OK, I assume that’s who we’re. The American Web boys.
Harry’s Vs. The FTC
RAPKIN: Entrepreneurs all the time speak concerning the huge exit. However Harry’s is an atypical story. The Washington Put up wrote this headline: “Harry’s Fixes Shaving, Breaks Exit Technique.” Principally, you had a large deal lined as much as sell to Edgewell. Then the FTC crushed it. Partially—they reasoned—since you’d gotten too huge to sell. Do you want you’d bought Harry’s earlier?
RAIDER: No, I imply— I don’t assume you may ever simply wave a magic wand and sell your organization. It’s sort of a two-way factor. We had been going to sell our enterprise to an organization referred to as Edgewell. It wasn’t simply them shopping for our firm; it was truly us taking up, inheriting a bunch of their manufacturers. As soon as we signed the deal, we went by way of a overview course of. I feel on reflection, clearly, we wouldn’t have gone by way of this nine-month interval and an intensive overview in the way in which that we did. I essentially believed this was going to be good for individuals. And we had been going to have the ability to harness a few of the expertise that that they had, take their manufacturers, and do good for purchasers. On the finish of the day they made their name. After which for us it was about going again to our staff and first saying, “Hey, we personal this. We predict we’ve all been on this nice journey collectively, and we’re sorry on this second for the way this occurred. Our imaginative and prescient was to construct this form of multi-brand, next-generation CPG firm. We had been going to do this by inheriting a bunch of manufacturers from Edgewell to start out. Now, we get to construct them ourselves.” I used to be so deeply impressed with our staff throughout that interval—most likely by no means greater than throughout that interval—simply how resilient and superior and considerate they had been.
RAPKIN: OK. However nobody was like, “This sucks, I used to be gonna purchase a ship.”
RAIDER: Yeah, we needed to sort of disavow them of that notion fairly shortly. Which was like, “Hey, you thought you had been going to get plenty of money. That’s not taking place proper now, however to be clear, the inventory that you just personal in Harry’s—it nonetheless has actual value.” After which over time we tried to search out alternative for the staff to get liquidity.
RYAN: If you and I first met, you shared with me that you just wished to construct a Procter & Gamble for millennials. And also you’re truly doing it.
RAIDER: Identical to I would say that we don’t need to construct “the Warby Parker of X,” I’m undecided we need to construct “the P&G of” both. However I feel the chance that we see is the power to construct manufacturers for the fashionable consumer. We are able to launch them on-line and be taught a ton concerning the consumer and their wants. For instance, we’ve a model in our portfolio referred to as Cat Individual—
RYAN: Which is my favourite model identify of all time.
One of many newer manufacturers in Raider’s portfolio consists of Cat Individual, a line of high-quality cat meals
Courtesy of Cat Individual
RAIDER: Cat Individual sells actually high-quality meals and different equipment for cats and their dad and mom. Our largest problem at Cat Individual is to determine get a cat to go from consuming the equal of quick meals to the equal of a wholesome salad each day. Cats are choosy, they like quick meals. However we expect we make merchandise with a lot better components. And we’re very clear about precisely what’s within the product. However yeah, we had this imaginative and prescient for some time inside Harry’s which was to construct a household of disruptive, omnichannel CPG manufacturers. And Andy and I sort of awakened earlier this yr, we’re like, Effectively, we’ve bought a household. We’ve bought Harry’s and Flamingo, which was a model we in-built girls’s physique care. We purchased a enterprise final yr referred to as Lume—began by an OBGYN attempting to assist girls clear up vaginal odor. I feel it’s our problem to proceed to develop these manufacturers—and add others in—and to allow them to get huge however not lose what made them particular, which is that they had been disruptive and so they took danger and so they constructed superb on-line communities.
Raider’s Playbook
RYAN: I’d argue that to achieve success as a serial entrepreneur, there needs to be a sure playbook. That was one of many concepts wished to get at on this collection, What are the teachings of repeat offenders. And also you’re one of many biggest repeat offenders I do know.
RAIDER: Certainly one of our buyers as soon as informed me that corporations fail for one in every of three causes. Both they’ve dangerous tradition, they’ve a foul product, or they’re dangerous stewards of capital. I take into consideration my job (in some methods) as shuttle diplomacy. Or taking part in Whack-a-Mole between all three. How can we be certain that we’re constructing a great tradition and that the groups are comfortable and engaged? How can we be certain that we’re making merchandise individuals love? After which how can we ensure we do this in a financially accountable method?
RYAN: That’s entrepreneur gold proper there. It’s superb the variety of stuff you take a look at and also you’re like, Shitty founder, shitty product, and a enterprise mannequin that’s an expression of their ego.
RAIDER: There’s clearly luck and serendipity. But when we are able to do these three issues, we are able to a minimum of construct a basis of a terrific firm.
RAPKIN: By the way in which, do you might have a cat?
RAIDER: I don’t. The true choice maker in my family is my spouse. I’ve been lobbying her to get a cat for some time, and I’ve bought my children lobbying her proper now.
The dialog has been edited and condensed for readability. In episode 5, Seed Well being Co-Founder Ara Katz talks the intestine growth, pitching bros, and what she realized from Michael Ovitz.
“Cereal Entrepreneur” is a brand new interview collection from Forbes co-hosted by Methodology founder Eric Ryan … [+]
Courtesy of Eric Ryan